How to Remove Self Tanner and Other Tanning FAQS, Answered | Glamour
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Now that sunscreen's importance is common knowledge and tanning beds are on their way out, everyone’s wondering how to fake tan at home—and how to remove self-tanner after the fact.
That's not because the best self-tanner doesn't look good, though: It's just that they can be hard to apply on first try. Plus, even if you do manage to pull it off without a problem (and kudos to you!), there's a time and place for such bold, bronzed look. Perhaps you need to take it off because left it on a little too long and are looking a little orange, or have a vampire-themed party to attend this weekend and simply can't pass for pale. Maybe you've realized it's not worth it and your beautiful sheets just can't handle handle any more stains.
Whatever the reason, you're in the right place: Glamour asked tanning pros and skin care experts all of our self-tanning FAQs, from when and how to apply it to avoid staining your clothing and everything else in your path, why topical products are preferred to sun-bathing outside (spoiler alert: UV rays aren't great for you or your skin), and essential after-care like how to remove self tanner once all is said and done.
When you think of self tanner, you might envision turning a bright, splotchy shade of blood orange. But don't worry! When applied correctly, the best self tanners can actually give you a beautiful, natural-looking, bronzed glow.
As for how they can possibly do such a thing? No, it's not magic—but it is science. According to Adarsh Vijay Mudgil, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of New York City’s Mudgil Dermatology, most self tanners contain an active ingredient called dihydroxyacetone.
“This chemical interacts with proteins in the outer layer of our skin, which contains dead skin cells,” Dr. Mudgil explains. “This causes a reaction which creates a bronze or brown discoloration.” That “discoloration” is actually what ends up making you look tan. It's not the sexiest sounding thing, but whatever works!
Simply put, opting for self tanner is simply the safest—and possibly easiest—way to get a boost of color on your skin without exposing yourself to potential UV and/or sun damage.
“Self-tanning products do not employ the use of UV radiation,” says Brendan Camp, MD, double-board-certified dermatologist at NYC’s MDCS Dermatology. "UV rays are responsible for stimulating melanin production as a way to protect skin from their harmful effects, and also contribute to accelerated aging by damaging collagen and elastin proteins in the dermis and the formation of skin cancers."
Not only is self tanning safer, but DIY tanning at-home is often more cost-efficient and convenient than other types. “Spray tans can be very expensive and even inconvenient if you have to travel,” St. Tropez skin finishing expert Sophie Evans tells Glamour. “Self-tanning at home is very affordable as you get lots of applications out of one bottle. Also, you are in the comfort of your own home and can apply the tan exactly how you desire. Very convenient!”
As noted above, self-tanner is the only way to get a tan without exposing yourself to potentially harmful sunlight or UV rays. Doing so is also safer than using a tanning bed: “Using tanning beds is the absolute worst thing you can do to your skin," according to Dr. Mudgil.
“Tanning beds increase your risk for skin cancer tremendously and age your skin beyond repair,” Dr. Mudgil continues. Such is sadly still the case for tanning in the sun, though sun-bathing is surprisingly safer than tanning beds. "Sunlight, albeit safer than tanning beds, still carry these same risks, namely, skin cancer, and premature aging,” Dr. Mudgil clarifies. “However sunless tanners don't carry any of the risks of actual UV exposure." Better safe than sorry, right?
Prep your skin.
“Start the prep process 24 to 48 hours before applying your tan," says Mel Brownlow, founder and managing director of St. Moriz. “Exfoliate to eliminate dead skin cells, creating a smooth canvas that prevents uneven application. After this, focus on hydration by moisturizing regularly on the days leading up to your self-tanning session.”
Your skin should also be of all products and any old self-tan, adds Evans. “Any waxing or hair removal should be completed 24 hours prior to application to avoid tan settling into hair pores and creating a spotty look,” she advises. “Using a non-oil-based moisturizer, apply moisturizer to problem areas only which are elbows, knees, feet, backs of heels, whole of the hand, and wrist crease and any areas of severe dry skin like eczema or psoriasis.”
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Make sure you have everything you need.
Next, make sure you you have all the correct products and accessories ready for application, Evans suggests. "You will need a tan applicator mitt to protect your palms from staining and make application a breeze, self-tan for your body and a separate self-tan for the face, non-oil-based moisturizer, and a pack of cleansing wipes for correcting,” she says.
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Start with your lower legs.
“Start tanning the lower legs first, ensuring you stop at the bottom of the ankle, skimming over the knee to keep the moisturizer in place,” says Evans. If you're using a mousse, grab an applicator mitt or glove to help you achieve a flawless finish. “Pump the self-tan onto the mitt and then use circular motions to blend the mousse into the skin,” she continues. “A self-tan with a guide color will help you spot any areas you might have missed as you repeat circular motions to cover your body with self-tan.”
Knees, elbows, and hands are usually the more difficult spots to self-tan, according to Brownlow, adding, “but a great trick is to bend your knees and elbows when you’re applying them to pull your skin taut.”
Stop at your hands and feet.
“The only areas we will tan differently is the hands and feet, so stopping at the ankle and wrist is highly important,” Evans warns. “When tanning the hands and feet, ensure you have the minimal amount of tan left on the mitt. Glide down from where you stopped, blending in-between the fingers and toes. The hands and feet need to look super blended as the skin in these areas are very sensitive to self-tan development."
Once blended, take a cleansing wipe and remove tan from all nails and cuticles.
Incorporate moisturizer.
To ensure a super seamless look, Evans suggests taking a little moisturizer and blending up the back of the heel crease. “The hands will be the last area you tan; once one hand is tanned, wipe the nails, cuticles, and palm clean, wait about 60 seconds, and place your tanned hand into the applicator mitt and proceed to tan the other hand.”
Finish with your wrists.
The last final step to ensure perfection, say Evans, is take the aforementioned moisturizer and blend from the palm up the crease in the wrist. “Avoid washing your hands for an hour and allow your self-tan to develop for the full recommended time,” she says. “Any uneven application will disappear when you take your first shower. Showering will remove all guide color and reveal your perfectly finished tanned skin.”
Wait 12 hours before you shower.
“After applying self-tanning products, wait about 12 hours before showering,” says Dr. Camp. “Showering too soon can cause some of the product to wash off, creating an uneven appearance in the product on your skin.”
Wondering when to apply self-tanner? That depends on your plans, but most experts suggest letting it develop overnight. “The best time to apply self-tanner is before bedtime, which allows the tan to develop without any interferences, plus your body temperature heats up during sleep allowing the product to absorb fully into the skin and develop to its ultimate best,” says Evans. “You can then shower in the morning and carry on with a busy lifestyle.”
So if you have an event, apply your self-tanner the night—or about 24 hours—before.
Doing it in the morning is also an option if you don't like sleeping in self-tanner, though that largely depends on your plans. “The key is to make sure that when you apply self-tan you aren’t planning to do anything that will lead to an uneven application as the tan develops, such as strenuous exercise,” Brownlow explains. “This is why it’s popular to sleep while your self tan develops, and if this is your preferred approach, then be sure to lay an old bed sheet or towel down for the first night and wear dark, loose clothing.”
Alternatively, you can opt for an express development self-tanner. For an express tanning mouse, try the St Tropez Express Bronzing Mousse, which allows you to tan, shower, and go in one hour for a light tan and up to three hours for a dark tan. If you prefer lotions, consider St. Moriz Professional 1 Hour Fast Self Tanner Lotion, which develops in just 60 minutes.
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If you're someone who's prone to getting hot and sweaty, be sure to wear tight clothing while your tan develops or else you could experience some transfer, says Evans.
“During the development time exercise, swimming, or getting sweaty should be avoided for a good eight hours,” she says. “But once your tan has fully developed and you've taken your first shower, which removes any built-in bronzer (guide color), you can do whatever you like without any fear of the tan transferring onto clothes, onto white sofas, and so on.” Just remember to wait those 12 hours!
While no two people can agree on the absolute best self-tanner of all time, there are a few simple tricks to finding the best tanner for you.
First, consider your preferences: What look are you going for? Do you want a deep, dark tan or just to look a little bronzer? From there, think about how much time and effort you're willing to put into the application—and development—process, and whether you'd prefer applying it while in the shower, using a spray, a mist, a mousse, or some other form. Once you identify your wants and needs, choosing your fave should be easy.
“It all depends on your skin type, lifestyle, and what look you desire,” says Evans. “For first time tanners, I would always recommend a self-tan with a built-in bronzer, or guide color, so you can see where you are applying it, like St. Tropez Self Tan Classic Bronzing Mousse," she says. "Using a tan with a guide color will get you used to looking at your body this way and will help later if you use a tan that applies clear.”
Mel Brownlow, founder and managing director of St. Moriz, suggests St. Moriz Professional Self Tanning Mousse for those new to self-tanning as well. “This self-tanner has a lightweight formula with added Aloe Vera and Vitamin E leaving the skin moisturized with a luxurious luminous finish,” she says. “The mousse formula is easy to apply and fast drying with instant color to highlight any missed areas. In 4-6 hours, your glowy self-tan will develop and last for days.”
For a full list of Glamour editors' picks for best self-tanners no matter your experience level, click here.
While there are plenty of DIY remedies for removing self-tanner, Dr. Mudgil recommends the simplest solution: using a tan removal product like the St. Moriz Professional Self Tan Remover Pads.
“One can actually purchase a commercially available self-tan remover," says Dr. Mudgil. “These products generally contain baking soda, a mild exfoliant. You'll see other DIY methods out there like using baby oil etc., but I think a product specifically designed for this purpose is your best bet.”
Evans echoes this, pointing to St Tropez’s Tan Remover Prep and Maintain Mousse as her favorite for the job. “Not only will it remove all old self-tan it will ensure your skin is at its best Ph level ready for self-tan development, but most tan removers on the market you cannot apply self-tan for about 12 hours," she says. “This one we can be due to its probiotic yogurt ingredient.”
You can also buff away darker tan lines caused by clothing on your first shower with a tanning mitt or body polish.
One of the downsides do DIY tanning is the possibility of stains. Fortunately, it's fairly easy to get rid of them. Dr. Camp's advice? “Pre-treat the stain by allowing it to soak in warm water, then apply a detergent and allowing it to soak for 20 minutes prior to cleaning in the washing machine,” he recommends. “This will increase the chance of the stain coming out.”
In other good news, both Evans and Brownlow assert that their self-tanners of choice wash out like any other stain. "St. Tropez washes out with soap and water; the guide color is only a vegetable dye so washes out very easily,” Evans says, and such is also the case with St. Moriz products. “They're water-based so if do find you have self-tanner on your clothes, towels, or sheets, don’t worry as it should easily wash out in the washing machine," says Brownlow.
However, to make sure stains comes out as efficiently as possible, Evans notes that “cleaning the self-tan immediately is key.”
If you're still concerned about stains, Dr. Camp suggests using a clear or colorless self-tanning product, like b.tan Clear Self Tan Gel, TAN-LUXE Water Hydrating Self Tanner Mist, or Isle of Paradise Glow Clear Self Tanning Mousse. “This reduce the risk of product transfer to clothing and bedding,” he says.
Contrary to popular belief, self-tans do not enter your blood stream. “They only penetrate the very top layers of your epidermis which naturally shed over seven to 10 days,” says Evans. “However, when you are in your first three months of pregnancy we recommend consulting with your doctor.”
According to Evans, “most doctors say its fine if you regularly use a self-tanner,” though if you're new to it, it's best to avoid. “Patch testing self-tanners is also important whist pregnant, even if you have used a product tons of times your skin can change, and we want to avoid any allergic reaction."
Dr. Camp says the same. "While dihydroxyacetone (DHA), the chemical in self-tanners that interacts with skin proteins to bronze the skin, may have limited systemic absorption when applied topically, there remains concern about its use in spray or aerosolized products because of the risk of inhalation," he explains. “Always check with your OB/GYN prior to the use of skincare products with ingredients of concern, or skip it altogether to be safe.”
Finally, it's important to note that while self-tanner provides pigment without exposure to UV rays, they still do not offer any sun protection. “Use sunscreen and sun-protective clothing and accessories, like hats and sunglasses, when spending time in the sun,” says Dr. Camp.
Danielle Sinay is the associate beauty editor at Glamour. Follow her on Instagram @daniellesinay.
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